Well, I'm watching the sun set from a street side cafe with a beautiful view of Lisbon, although its cooling off quickly so I will write fast!
Today was a beautiful day, sunny and 70, couldn't have asked for a better day. I of course asked for several more, but what can you do ;-)
Took it easy today, went to Belém, a nearby suburb on the river with several monuments and museums. Took a nice long lunch, then came back to town and walked around a bit. Tonight a light dinner and to bed early for the trip home tomorrow!
To add to the comparison to SF, Lisbon has a very close replica of the Golden Gate which is the exact same color and apparently was even built by the same company. The towers are different, but from most angles you can't really tell. It's kind of eerie!!
I'm sad to be ending my trip, but kind of glad to be coming home to different clothes, my own bed, and my friends. I've missed everyone even of I have talked to everyone on AIM several times!!
They are shutting down the cafe so I'd better jet. See you all back in the States!!
Saturday, March 7, 2009
3:00 pm, Sintra - outside Moorish Castle
I've decided Portugal has the lousiest weather, ever. Even the UK had nicer weather when I was there!! All three times!
The weather has been both a pain and an attraction in itself today. I'm just finishing the sights in Sintra: the National Palace (nice, but full of annoying Portuguese teenagers), Pena Palace (gorgeous, but militant about their no photos rule - why double-staff a room to prevent photography? I don't get it), and the highlight for me, the Moorish castle ruins. This is going to date me, but it was exactly like the castle ruins where they had the sword fight at the top of the Cliffs of Insanity in the movie Princess Bride. I wonder if that's where they filmed it? LOL. Anyway, the castle and Pena Palace were both on top of this huge mountain, and the clouds/fog combined with the wind made for some fantastic pictures!! Very eerie, but way cool. Unfortunately I forgot my hat today and my hair is suffering the consequences, big time. Why didn't I buzz it before this trip again??
The weather has been both a pain and an attraction in itself today. I'm just finishing the sights in Sintra: the National Palace (nice, but full of annoying Portuguese teenagers), Pena Palace (gorgeous, but militant about their no photos rule - why double-staff a room to prevent photography? I don't get it), and the highlight for me, the Moorish castle ruins. This is going to date me, but it was exactly like the castle ruins where they had the sword fight at the top of the Cliffs of Insanity in the movie Princess Bride. I wonder if that's where they filmed it? LOL. Anyway, the castle and Pena Palace were both on top of this huge mountain, and the clouds/fog combined with the wind made for some fantastic pictures!! Very eerie, but way cool. Unfortunately I forgot my hat today and my hair is suffering the consequences, big time. Why didn't I buzz it before this trip again??
Top Twenty Things I Learned in Portugal
1) Elevators are a luxury. Treasure them as you would precious jewels, or children.
2) The Portuguese go out MUCH later than you do. Accept that, and go to bed early.
3) However you think the word "conceição" is pronounced, you're wrong.
4) Sardines don't taste as bad as you think. Actually, they're kind of good...like canned tuna, but a little stronger. A fun side effect is lethal sardine burps which ward off vampires and the British.
5) Pigeons are BACK! And they're pissed.
6) British tourists come in two types: timid, doddy old fart couples who complain that they can't get baked beans for breakfast, and 20-something wannabe soccer hooligans with mohawks looking to get fucked up beyond recognition.
7) Portuguese schoolchildren are never seen in groups of less than 20, regardless of the circumstances.
8) All streets and sidewalks in Lisbon are paved with tiles and cobblestones. While aesthetically pleasing, this will make you want to cut your feet off at the ankles with pruning shears.
9) An unfortunate side effect of hilltop castles is extreme wind conditions. Kings must have had bad hair like, all the time. I guess that explains crowns.
10) Here's a fun exercise: Go to a map. Pick any city in Portugal, large or small. Chances are excellent that the city you picked has more train stations than the entire US Northeast. Crossing the country will run you about three bucks. Oh, and the train system here is considered slow and primitive by snooty countries like France and Belgium.
11) As in Morocco, most women here are named Fatima. They even named a city Fatima. I don't even think it's a very good name.
12) "Portugal" comes from the ancient Roman name for the city of Porto: Portus Cale, which is Latin for "hilly, windy place that is obsessed with fish".
13) ATMs here dispense €10, €20 and €50 bills only. Most places of business have an irrational fear of any denomination larger than €5. This poses a real probleml for, well...everyone.
14) Do not, under any circumstances, accidentally lapse into Spanish when trying to communicate with a Portuguese person. They hate the Spanish and will bludgeon you unconscious with a mackerel.
15) Do not try to apply your newly acquired North African mad bargaining skills while buying toothpaste in a Lisbon supermarket. Homey don't play that.
16) You are allowed to walk along castle walls here. However, Moors and medieval Portuguese did not have the technology to build handrails to prevent your falling into the castle courtyard. They also did not erect signs to warn you of this, as that would spoil all the fun.
17) It's not considered rude at all to honk your horn incessantly on a residential street at 5am. Earplugs are a wise investment.
18) In 1494, Portugal and Spain drew an arbitrary line down the globe and each took half. Not knowing what the world looked like at the time, the Spanish got all the good stuff except Brazil, and Portugal got...Brazil. They are still really mad that they got hosed.
19) Port wine, a key export of Portugal, is made by adding brandy to wine, then boiling it down until it has the consistency and sugar content of maple syrup. In spite of that, it's delicious.
And finally...
20) In Portugal, shrimp are served with the tails removed but the heads on! There's nothing quite like buggy black shrimp eyes and antennae to remind you that you're eating sea roaches.
2) The Portuguese go out MUCH later than you do. Accept that, and go to bed early.
3) However you think the word "conceição" is pronounced, you're wrong.
4) Sardines don't taste as bad as you think. Actually, they're kind of good...like canned tuna, but a little stronger. A fun side effect is lethal sardine burps which ward off vampires and the British.
5) Pigeons are BACK! And they're pissed.
6) British tourists come in two types: timid, doddy old fart couples who complain that they can't get baked beans for breakfast, and 20-something wannabe soccer hooligans with mohawks looking to get fucked up beyond recognition.
7) Portuguese schoolchildren are never seen in groups of less than 20, regardless of the circumstances.
8) All streets and sidewalks in Lisbon are paved with tiles and cobblestones. While aesthetically pleasing, this will make you want to cut your feet off at the ankles with pruning shears.
9) An unfortunate side effect of hilltop castles is extreme wind conditions. Kings must have had bad hair like, all the time. I guess that explains crowns.
10) Here's a fun exercise: Go to a map. Pick any city in Portugal, large or small. Chances are excellent that the city you picked has more train stations than the entire US Northeast. Crossing the country will run you about three bucks. Oh, and the train system here is considered slow and primitive by snooty countries like France and Belgium.
11) As in Morocco, most women here are named Fatima. They even named a city Fatima. I don't even think it's a very good name.
12) "Portugal" comes from the ancient Roman name for the city of Porto: Portus Cale, which is Latin for "hilly, windy place that is obsessed with fish".
13) ATMs here dispense €10, €20 and €50 bills only. Most places of business have an irrational fear of any denomination larger than €5. This poses a real probleml for, well...everyone.
14) Do not, under any circumstances, accidentally lapse into Spanish when trying to communicate with a Portuguese person. They hate the Spanish and will bludgeon you unconscious with a mackerel.
15) Do not try to apply your newly acquired North African mad bargaining skills while buying toothpaste in a Lisbon supermarket. Homey don't play that.
16) You are allowed to walk along castle walls here. However, Moors and medieval Portuguese did not have the technology to build handrails to prevent your falling into the castle courtyard. They also did not erect signs to warn you of this, as that would spoil all the fun.
17) It's not considered rude at all to honk your horn incessantly on a residential street at 5am. Earplugs are a wise investment.
18) In 1494, Portugal and Spain drew an arbitrary line down the globe and each took half. Not knowing what the world looked like at the time, the Spanish got all the good stuff except Brazil, and Portugal got...Brazil. They are still really mad that they got hosed.
19) Port wine, a key export of Portugal, is made by adding brandy to wine, then boiling it down until it has the consistency and sugar content of maple syrup. In spite of that, it's delicious.
And finally...
20) In Portugal, shrimp are served with the tails removed but the heads on! There's nothing quite like buggy black shrimp eyes and antennae to remind you that you're eating sea roaches.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Rockin' out in Lisbon
I made it to Lisbon in one piece! I'm sad that this is my last city, but it's been a great trip and I'm actually about ready to come home. I know, I thought I'd never see the day! I am happy that I only have to pack once more, though...I am tired of living out of a suitcase.
Lisbon is an amazing city...imagine if Paris and San Francisco had a bastard child with a weird accent, and there you have it. It's got some fantastic neighborhoods, trolley cars, a bridge that looks suspiciously like the Golden Gate...and so far, cold, shitty weather. But it's Europe in early March, so I knew what I was getting into. Today I just walked around the city, went to the castle, the cathedral and the main museum, i.e. the standard European city day. Tomorrow I'm going to Sintra, which was the "royal getaway" town, I guess kind of like Versailles, except not. Then Saturday probably just bum around town, and Sunday I come home!
I'm about out things to say...it's hard work being a man about town and I'm pooped. I'll write once more before I leave, if I can!
Oh, before I go, I'll leave you with this thought: the Portuguese are all about some bendy straws. That is all.
Lisbon is an amazing city...imagine if Paris and San Francisco had a bastard child with a weird accent, and there you have it. It's got some fantastic neighborhoods, trolley cars, a bridge that looks suspiciously like the Golden Gate...and so far, cold, shitty weather. But it's Europe in early March, so I knew what I was getting into. Today I just walked around the city, went to the castle, the cathedral and the main museum, i.e. the standard European city day. Tomorrow I'm going to Sintra, which was the "royal getaway" town, I guess kind of like Versailles, except not. Then Saturday probably just bum around town, and Sunday I come home!
I'm about out things to say...it's hard work being a man about town and I'm pooped. I'll write once more before I leave, if I can!
Oh, before I go, I'll leave you with this thought: the Portuguese are all about some bendy straws. That is all.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Bem vindo a Portugal
Well Portugal certainly is a culture shock after Morocco! It's weird to be back in a place with rules, order, and regular trash pickup. And also - this is the toughest part so far - no one even cares that I'm here! I have walked by hundreds of shops and not a soul has tried to force me to come in, unroll his carpets, or offer me mint tea. It's funny how you miss that a little when it's not there anymore.
The food here is pretty boring, and surprisingly similar to British food: lots of sausages and fish, eels, sandwiches covered in gravy, stuff like that. No wonder all the British come here! Me, not so impressed. But oh well. I'm headed to Lisbon by train this afternoon and hoping a bigger city will offer more "colonial food" as the Portuguese did have some interesting colonies. No more fish for me, please! I realized how little Portuguese I knew when last night for dinner I inadvertently ordered a ham, cheese and hot dog sandwich. Not that it was bad...it just didn't make any SENSE. Kind of like peanut butter and bacon...it may be delicious, but who's the crackhead who thought to try it??
Porto is a cool town, but it is very compact and there isn't a ton to see. I went to the cellars where they age port wine (cool), a cathedral (kinda cool), the Ribeira district (cool), and now I'm out of things to do that don't involve eating, drinking or shopping. And I'm out of room in my luggage, so that leaves eating and drinking. I tried to reserve a river cruise yesterday, and the site said wait for an email with details which never came...so I went to the train station where they meet, and nothing. At least I hadn't prepaid...oh well, wasn't meant to be I guess. And today it's pouring so even a short river cruise is out of the question.
Portuguese is a very strange language, is sounds kind of like Spanish with a very noticeable lisp and/or speech impediment. There are lots of unexpected vowels, and a lot of "sh" and "zh" sounds. It's fun to speak but it totally feels like I'm doing it wrong!
I'm on the 3:45 train to Lisbon this afternoon and am really looking forward to it. I think I've seen all I want to see in Porto. And from what I hear Lisbon is a much more exciting city. This country is dirt cheap too; my ticket was only about $30 for an express train (2 1/2 hours)...compare that with a similar trip on Amtrak! Coffee is less than one euro, and most meals are between €4-8 euros, even at the touristy places. Other than all the shopping this really has been a cheap trip!!
I guess I'd better shower and check out...it's hard to get motivated in this weather. Will post soon from Lisbon!!
The food here is pretty boring, and surprisingly similar to British food: lots of sausages and fish, eels, sandwiches covered in gravy, stuff like that. No wonder all the British come here! Me, not so impressed. But oh well. I'm headed to Lisbon by train this afternoon and hoping a bigger city will offer more "colonial food" as the Portuguese did have some interesting colonies. No more fish for me, please! I realized how little Portuguese I knew when last night for dinner I inadvertently ordered a ham, cheese and hot dog sandwich. Not that it was bad...it just didn't make any SENSE. Kind of like peanut butter and bacon...it may be delicious, but who's the crackhead who thought to try it??
Porto is a cool town, but it is very compact and there isn't a ton to see. I went to the cellars where they age port wine (cool), a cathedral (kinda cool), the Ribeira district (cool), and now I'm out of things to do that don't involve eating, drinking or shopping. And I'm out of room in my luggage, so that leaves eating and drinking. I tried to reserve a river cruise yesterday, and the site said wait for an email with details which never came...so I went to the train station where they meet, and nothing. At least I hadn't prepaid...oh well, wasn't meant to be I guess. And today it's pouring so even a short river cruise is out of the question.
Portuguese is a very strange language, is sounds kind of like Spanish with a very noticeable lisp and/or speech impediment. There are lots of unexpected vowels, and a lot of "sh" and "zh" sounds. It's fun to speak but it totally feels like I'm doing it wrong!
I'm on the 3:45 train to Lisbon this afternoon and am really looking forward to it. I think I've seen all I want to see in Porto. And from what I hear Lisbon is a much more exciting city. This country is dirt cheap too; my ticket was only about $30 for an express train (2 1/2 hours)...compare that with a similar trip on Amtrak! Coffee is less than one euro, and most meals are between €4-8 euros, even at the touristy places. Other than all the shopping this really has been a cheap trip!!
I guess I'd better shower and check out...it's hard to get motivated in this weather. Will post soon from Lisbon!!
Monday, March 2, 2009
Leaving Morocco
11:30 am, Marrakech airport
After 8 days, it's time to leave Morocco and on to Portugal. While I'm very excited about the next part of my trip, I have mixed feelings about leaving here.
True, this country is a pain in the ass at times. But there's something so unique, so authentically exotic and (for Americans at least) undiscovered about this country, that I feel like there is a lot I haven't seen. I always try to strike a balance between breadth and depth of experience, and I think I got it right this time, but I leave feeling there is so much more left to see. I didn't get to the Sahara, or Meknes, or Rabat, or Tangier, and I feel like I could have driven around for another week and found something exciting around every bend. So in that sense I hope that someday I will come back and finish what I started. But I'm leaving on a positive note, and with some distance I expect the memories will only get better.
I have to admit, I owe a big part of my good experience in Marrakech to the riad I stayed at. It was such an international, but English-speaking group, both the staff and the guests. Unlike anywhere else I've stayed, the common area truly was that - almost like a public family room. I'd go out there to read or catch up on email, and find myself sidetracked for hours having mint tea and talking with the Irish couple, or the English couple, or the American girl who arrived yesterday whom I really bonded with. We talked for about two hours about Morocco, traveling in general, etc and we ended up going to the square together to have dinner. I introduced her to some Moroccan dishes and we walked around for a little while after that. It's funny how quickly you bond with someone when you're so far from home and have just a few things in common.
I have to talk about the square for a bit. It's called Djemma El-Fna, and it's without question the nerve center of the entire country. It's a huge, irregular open space that feels like a combination between a park, a carnival, a craft fair and an open-air cafe. Unlike a lot of public spaces I've been to, although a tourist attraction it was obviously also a huge draw for ordinary Moroccans, too. During the day it's largely open space, with lots of street entertainment (magicians, snake charmers, fortune tellers, traditional musicians and the like) but when the sun sets the stalls are set up. Oh, the stalls!! Every kind of food and drink imaginable is available, from boiled snails (gross) to goat heads to orange juice to tagines to kebabs to spice cake, and so on. It's all dirt cheap -I ate dinner every night there and pigged out, but somehow never spent more than 8 or 9 bucks. I could have spent my entire time in Marrakech there and never gotten bored.
I haven't had a drink in over a week now, and what's funny is I haven't missed it one bit. It's just not something you crave here - the country is already such an assault on the senses that it almost would be a waste to drink here for fear of missing some experience (or getting suckered into buying a carpet or something!). It ought to be quite an interesting transition, from a dry country to one that is very wine-centric. I'm sure I won't have too much trouble adjusting, though! :-)
I'd better get wrapped up, it's almost time to board. More from Portugal in a bit!!
After 8 days, it's time to leave Morocco and on to Portugal. While I'm very excited about the next part of my trip, I have mixed feelings about leaving here.
True, this country is a pain in the ass at times. But there's something so unique, so authentically exotic and (for Americans at least) undiscovered about this country, that I feel like there is a lot I haven't seen. I always try to strike a balance between breadth and depth of experience, and I think I got it right this time, but I leave feeling there is so much more left to see. I didn't get to the Sahara, or Meknes, or Rabat, or Tangier, and I feel like I could have driven around for another week and found something exciting around every bend. So in that sense I hope that someday I will come back and finish what I started. But I'm leaving on a positive note, and with some distance I expect the memories will only get better.
I have to admit, I owe a big part of my good experience in Marrakech to the riad I stayed at. It was such an international, but English-speaking group, both the staff and the guests. Unlike anywhere else I've stayed, the common area truly was that - almost like a public family room. I'd go out there to read or catch up on email, and find myself sidetracked for hours having mint tea and talking with the Irish couple, or the English couple, or the American girl who arrived yesterday whom I really bonded with. We talked for about two hours about Morocco, traveling in general, etc and we ended up going to the square together to have dinner. I introduced her to some Moroccan dishes and we walked around for a little while after that. It's funny how quickly you bond with someone when you're so far from home and have just a few things in common.
I have to talk about the square for a bit. It's called Djemma El-Fna, and it's without question the nerve center of the entire country. It's a huge, irregular open space that feels like a combination between a park, a carnival, a craft fair and an open-air cafe. Unlike a lot of public spaces I've been to, although a tourist attraction it was obviously also a huge draw for ordinary Moroccans, too. During the day it's largely open space, with lots of street entertainment (magicians, snake charmers, fortune tellers, traditional musicians and the like) but when the sun sets the stalls are set up. Oh, the stalls!! Every kind of food and drink imaginable is available, from boiled snails (gross) to goat heads to orange juice to tagines to kebabs to spice cake, and so on. It's all dirt cheap -I ate dinner every night there and pigged out, but somehow never spent more than 8 or 9 bucks. I could have spent my entire time in Marrakech there and never gotten bored.
I haven't had a drink in over a week now, and what's funny is I haven't missed it one bit. It's just not something you crave here - the country is already such an assault on the senses that it almost would be a waste to drink here for fear of missing some experience (or getting suckered into buying a carpet or something!). It ought to be quite an interesting transition, from a dry country to one that is very wine-centric. I'm sure I won't have too much trouble adjusting, though! :-)
I'd better get wrapped up, it's almost time to board. More from Portugal in a bit!!
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Another Top Fifteen Things I've Learned in Morocco...
1) European men STILL wear Capri pants.
2) A short toot of the horn from behind means "Hey there...moped behind you. Just wanted to let you know" and is very helpful for avoiding pedestrian-vs-moped collisions. A long toot of the horn means the same as it does in the States.
3) To Moroccans, eye contact from white people means one of three things: "I would like to buy everything in your shop", "I am desperately lost and will give you money to take me to the main square", or "I'd like to give you money for no reason at all". Liberal use of sunglasses, even in covered markets, is the only antidote.
4) After a couple of days in the same city, you start seeing the same tourists over and over again. Either that, or all French people look alike.
5) Restaurant pimps will let little girls walk up to your table to try and sell you tissues. However, if hungry little girls ask for your leftovers, they will be really mean to them and shoo them away.
6) No one should ever go hungry in Morocco. There are enough orange trees on the street to feed millions.
7) Boiled snails are possibly the most revolting smell I've ever encountered. They are, of course, a delicacy...aka "acquired taste"...aka gross.
8) Whatever good or service you want to purchase here, it's more than likely they have a place in the souk for it. This includes, but is not limited to, nuts that look like giant boogers, and lamination of documents - or as it is so elegantly said in French - "plastification".
9) The billboards of the Moroccan king are actually a series! There's "happy" king, "sad" king, "I was in the middle of eating a fig when he took this picture" king, "I'm trying to focus on a distant object" king, and "I'm wasted out of my mind but trying not to make it too obvious because drinking is frowned upon here" king.
10) McDonald's has a halal version of the McRib sandwich called the McArabic. It comes around 24 times a year, but always for a limited time only. If you order a combo meal you can pick from either fries or "special potatoes", which are just wedge fries, and a regular drink is about 6 oz.
11) Snake charmers get really, really mad at you if you take a picture without giving them money. Oddly enough they will offer to cover you in snakes if you give them money. I'd bet they'd do a much better business if they threatened to cover you in snakes UNLESS you gave them money. Just a thought, snake charmers...just a thought.
12) There are many, many signs for dentists in Moroccan streets. They are either very underused or very ineffective.
13) Dare-based traffic motions are a common form of entertainment in Morocco. White people ALWAYS lose.
14) Groups of Moroccan women walking down the street in front of you are like a football team's defensive line, if they had their backs turned to you but could sense your every move. If you're going to try and get past them, be prepared for a scuffle and possibly a concussion.
And finally...
15) There is no Arabic equivalent of the word "tacky", as in "I think that carpet with the fifteen colors and twelve alternating patterns is tacky".
That'll do it for Morocco. Next up, things I learned in Portugal!
2) A short toot of the horn from behind means "Hey there...moped behind you. Just wanted to let you know" and is very helpful for avoiding pedestrian-vs-moped collisions. A long toot of the horn means the same as it does in the States.
3) To Moroccans, eye contact from white people means one of three things: "I would like to buy everything in your shop", "I am desperately lost and will give you money to take me to the main square", or "I'd like to give you money for no reason at all". Liberal use of sunglasses, even in covered markets, is the only antidote.
4) After a couple of days in the same city, you start seeing the same tourists over and over again. Either that, or all French people look alike.
5) Restaurant pimps will let little girls walk up to your table to try and sell you tissues. However, if hungry little girls ask for your leftovers, they will be really mean to them and shoo them away.
6) No one should ever go hungry in Morocco. There are enough orange trees on the street to feed millions.
7) Boiled snails are possibly the most revolting smell I've ever encountered. They are, of course, a delicacy...aka "acquired taste"...aka gross.
8) Whatever good or service you want to purchase here, it's more than likely they have a place in the souk for it. This includes, but is not limited to, nuts that look like giant boogers, and lamination of documents - or as it is so elegantly said in French - "plastification".
9) The billboards of the Moroccan king are actually a series! There's "happy" king, "sad" king, "I was in the middle of eating a fig when he took this picture" king, "I'm trying to focus on a distant object" king, and "I'm wasted out of my mind but trying not to make it too obvious because drinking is frowned upon here" king.
10) McDonald's has a halal version of the McRib sandwich called the McArabic. It comes around 24 times a year, but always for a limited time only. If you order a combo meal you can pick from either fries or "special potatoes", which are just wedge fries, and a regular drink is about 6 oz.
11) Snake charmers get really, really mad at you if you take a picture without giving them money. Oddly enough they will offer to cover you in snakes if you give them money. I'd bet they'd do a much better business if they threatened to cover you in snakes UNLESS you gave them money. Just a thought, snake charmers...just a thought.
12) There are many, many signs for dentists in Moroccan streets. They are either very underused or very ineffective.
13) Dare-based traffic motions are a common form of entertainment in Morocco. White people ALWAYS lose.
14) Groups of Moroccan women walking down the street in front of you are like a football team's defensive line, if they had their backs turned to you but could sense your every move. If you're going to try and get past them, be prepared for a scuffle and possibly a concussion.
And finally...
15) There is no Arabic equivalent of the word "tacky", as in "I think that carpet with the fifteen colors and twelve alternating patterns is tacky".
That'll do it for Morocco. Next up, things I learned in Portugal!
Saturday, February 28, 2009
11:30 pm Ouarzazate
After the medieval melée of Fes and the rural, crumbling charm of AÏt Ben Haddou, it was a waste of time to try and appreciate Ouarzazate. But, faced with a couple hours free - not really long enough to go check out the other sights in the region - I figured, what the hell. Plus, after two days of relatively little exercise, I was itching to get out and just walk around.
What a waste of time. This city was founded by the French in the 1930s and has all the charm (and the cheap master-planned look) of Phoenix, a city I loathe. I kept waiting for a tarantula or rattlesnake to appear and complete the comparison. I won't waste any more time on it than to say, it was a good walk but I didn't gain anything from it besides exercise. I wasn't expecting much, the town is known more as a good base from which to see other places than a destination on itself.
I'm very much enjoying having a car here. Moroccan roads are quite good, on fact considering this is a pretty poor country, I have to say the infrastructure as a whole is very good. I'd even venture to say the roads are in better shape than Atlanta, although to be honest that says more about Atlanta than it does about Morocco!!
I've had a hell of a time finding working Internet here, but I definitely have it in Marrakech so I'm not too worried about it. There is wireless in the hotel - I pic up the signal - but I can't get any kind of server to respond. This isn't my strong suit anyway, so I'm writing it off as a loss and this'll be part of a mass upload. Hope no one is worried about me :-)
Tomorrow I leave this pit and head back to Marrakech via a different route. I have to be back by 4 and I have no idea how long the drive will take, hopefully not too long as I don't want to be charged extra!! I will miss my little car, it's a silver Kia and I have named her Fatima.
Oh - that reminds me! Moroccan radio is quite interesting; you can find almost anything you want on there but you have to wait for it as the stations don't seem to stick as strictly to one theme as they do in the US. I was flipping through on my way out of Marrakech yesterday and it was a little unsettling (and HIGHLY amusing) to suddenly hear Littlejohn yell "YEAH!!!". Particularly after Berber tribal music. Yeah, this country's pretty awesome.
What a waste of time. This city was founded by the French in the 1930s and has all the charm (and the cheap master-planned look) of Phoenix, a city I loathe. I kept waiting for a tarantula or rattlesnake to appear and complete the comparison. I won't waste any more time on it than to say, it was a good walk but I didn't gain anything from it besides exercise. I wasn't expecting much, the town is known more as a good base from which to see other places than a destination on itself.
I'm very much enjoying having a car here. Moroccan roads are quite good, on fact considering this is a pretty poor country, I have to say the infrastructure as a whole is very good. I'd even venture to say the roads are in better shape than Atlanta, although to be honest that says more about Atlanta than it does about Morocco!!
I've had a hell of a time finding working Internet here, but I definitely have it in Marrakech so I'm not too worried about it. There is wireless in the hotel - I pic up the signal - but I can't get any kind of server to respond. This isn't my strong suit anyway, so I'm writing it off as a loss and this'll be part of a mass upload. Hope no one is worried about me :-)
Tomorrow I leave this pit and head back to Marrakech via a different route. I have to be back by 4 and I have no idea how long the drive will take, hopefully not too long as I don't want to be charged extra!! I will miss my little car, it's a silver Kia and I have named her Fatima.
Oh - that reminds me! Moroccan radio is quite interesting; you can find almost anything you want on there but you have to wait for it as the stations don't seem to stick as strictly to one theme as they do in the US. I was flipping through on my way out of Marrakech yesterday and it was a little unsettling (and HIGHLY amusing) to suddenly hear Littlejohn yell "YEAH!!!". Particularly after Berber tribal music. Yeah, this country's pretty awesome.
"Your transaction is under treatment. Please wait a little bit."
12:15 pm, Aït Ben Haddou
I am writing today from one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. THIS is the Morocco I have come to see!
Aït Ben Haddou is an old fortress, or kasbah, in quite literally the middle of nowhere. It's made entirely of mud, rocks and straw around a very large rock hill. I had to cross a stream via donkey taxi (about US$1.50) and ward off the merchants, but I'm plenty used to that by now. I've been wandering for about 30 minutes on what has been the first cloudy day of my trip so far. I am taking tons of pictures and think I might have a way to upload them if I can find a stable wireless connection here.
Yesterday was quite a day. It started at 5:45 am, with no coffee and only dates and cashew cookies (delicious) for breakfast. The train ride from Fes to Marrakech is about 7 1/2 hours, including stops. For some stupid reason I thought the train might not be crowded, boy was I wrong. Most of the way it was PACKED! So I couldn't stretch really for 6 of those 7 hours, and except for a French couple across from me part of the time, I had no one to talk to...and the French couple didn't speak any English so we were limited to Franglish.
My original plan was to take the national bus from Marrakech to Ouarzazate, but it was very chaotic and I couldn't find the bus station in time to make it...so I said F it and rented a car. VERY glad I did that, for a number of reasons: one, I now have a lot more flexibility, two, I was able to stop and take pictures along the way (the scenery was gorgeous), and three, the road was a curvy edge-of-cliff mountain road for most of the way, not exactly an adventure I enjoy on a bus. The High Atlas are 12 to 13,000 feet high in this part of the country, to give you an idea of the drop-offs we're talking about here...
My hotel here is an Ibis, standard European style, basic but plenty comfortable. And I have TV! Didn't think I'd miss that but boy was it nice to see Friends and Seinfeld this morning on Dubai One. LOL.
I'm getting cold - it's very breezy up here - so I'm going to wrap up and finish exploring. TTFN!
P.S. - The blog title is what the ATM told me as it was counting my cash. Again with the broken English!!
I am writing today from one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. THIS is the Morocco I have come to see!
Aït Ben Haddou is an old fortress, or kasbah, in quite literally the middle of nowhere. It's made entirely of mud, rocks and straw around a very large rock hill. I had to cross a stream via donkey taxi (about US$1.50) and ward off the merchants, but I'm plenty used to that by now. I've been wandering for about 30 minutes on what has been the first cloudy day of my trip so far. I am taking tons of pictures and think I might have a way to upload them if I can find a stable wireless connection here.
Yesterday was quite a day. It started at 5:45 am, with no coffee and only dates and cashew cookies (delicious) for breakfast. The train ride from Fes to Marrakech is about 7 1/2 hours, including stops. For some stupid reason I thought the train might not be crowded, boy was I wrong. Most of the way it was PACKED! So I couldn't stretch really for 6 of those 7 hours, and except for a French couple across from me part of the time, I had no one to talk to...and the French couple didn't speak any English so we were limited to Franglish.
My original plan was to take the national bus from Marrakech to Ouarzazate, but it was very chaotic and I couldn't find the bus station in time to make it...so I said F it and rented a car. VERY glad I did that, for a number of reasons: one, I now have a lot more flexibility, two, I was able to stop and take pictures along the way (the scenery was gorgeous), and three, the road was a curvy edge-of-cliff mountain road for most of the way, not exactly an adventure I enjoy on a bus. The High Atlas are 12 to 13,000 feet high in this part of the country, to give you an idea of the drop-offs we're talking about here...
My hotel here is an Ibis, standard European style, basic but plenty comfortable. And I have TV! Didn't think I'd miss that but boy was it nice to see Friends and Seinfeld this morning on Dubai One. LOL.
I'm getting cold - it's very breezy up here - so I'm going to wrap up and finish exploring. TTFN!
P.S. - The blog title is what the ATM told me as it was counting my cash. Again with the broken English!!
"She chased me around the square calling me a motherfucker!!"
Note: for those of you who might be loyal blog followers, some trusted friend who shall remain nameless forgot to post my last two blog entries so these'll be a little out of order...
Yesterday was a travel day, as I had to drive back to Marrakech from Ouarzazate, and had intermittently spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to do with my four-wheeled freedom while I still had it. A part of me really wanted to see the Sahara, but it was 2-3 hours in the wrong direction, plus then I'd have to drive back over the same route, so I finally rejected that idea. That left two options: returning via the same mountain pass road I'd taken (called Tizi-n-Tichka), or trying the other path about 100 km to the west (called Tizi-n-Test). I'd much rather drive in a circle than see the same thing twice, so I decided on the other road. So basically I drove in a very large circle just to see something new.
Tizi-n-Test was a hell of a drive, but God was it pretty! It started out with red volcanic rock, a very barren landscape, which went on for a while, and all I saw was the occasional signpost and RV (Europeans apparently love their RVs just as much as Americans do!), and there weren't many towns at all. After a mountain pass about an hour into the trip, the landscape became much lusher, with rolling hills and grasses, and still fairly empty. Next was a beautiful landscape with lots of trees called argan which - I am not kidding here - the goats climbed up into the trees to eat the nuts!! I had heard about it but couldn't believe I was seeing goats in trees like they were monkeys or something. What's next, horses digging tunnels?? The area looked a lot like the grassy hills of northern California with the argan trees speckled everywhere.
Next, I turned off onto the pass road, and quickly climbed up to the pass which was 6,800 feet high (the mountains of the High Atlas were 11 and 13,000 feet, which is a hell of a thought considering THIS road, unbeknownst to me, was less than two lanes wide it was about 1 1/2 in most places, and to pass another car you had to edge onto the shoulder, which was often loaded up with rocks that had fallen from higher up. In many places there was no guardrail at all. I think if I had known what I was in for, I would have seriously reconsidered it!! But since on the ascent the foothills were practically nonexistent, the views were like nothing I'd ever seen. Tremendous!
Once I crossed the pass and began descending, the landscape instantly changed. Partly overcast and dry gave way to cloudy and cold, and there was snow everywhere, including quite a bit on the road! I know how to drive in snow, but I didn't think I'd signed up for it on a narrow road with no guardrail 6,000-odd feet in the air. But the snowy landscape didn't last long, thankfully, and I kept going. The foothills went on forever but finally I made it to the bottom (still 1 1/2 lanes almost the entire way). And on to Marrakech to return the car and check into the riad. Right as I got put of the foothills and onto the plain I saw a very large storm just off to the east, which as it turned out would follow me in! I made it to the road with about 5 minutes to spare before the sky absolutely opened up and it poured. And I mean POURED, for about an hour, mixed in with hail for a good 15 minutes. I'd never seen hail go on for so long! The funniest part was, the courtyard roof of the riad is tarped, and there is a catchment system which feeds the small fountain on the ground floor. Well, that system caught the hail and sent it down to the fountain, which looked like a beer cooler after the storm!
Marrakech is by far the most touristy place I've seen on the trip so far. I don't think I've seen more than a handful of Americans so far, but this seems to be quite a draw for Europeans, who are everywhere! In my riad alone there is a German family, two British couples and a very nice Irish couple named Leo and Benna that I seem to keep running into. They are hilarious, very deadpan, and Leo is incredibly hard to understand! I think I've had an easier time with some of the French people here, which is kind of funny, probably because they speakvsp much slower. Benna will tell anyone who'll listen about the crazy woman who cut her hand to give her a henna tattoo she didn't ask for or want, then when she refused to pay an exorbitant amount chased her around the square calling her a motherfucker!! It's even funnier coming from a 60 year old Irish lady.
If Fes is the San Francisco of Morocco, Marrakech is without a doubt the New York. It's an incredibly bustling city that makes Fes look provincial. Because it's flat, there are bicycles and mopeds everywhere, even on all the narrow lanes that anywhere else would be pedestrian only. This adds significantly to the chaos as you really need to be careful of making sudden moves sincethere might be a moped right behind you. I've almost gotten body slammed a couple times already because I tend to zigzag around passing people that walk slower than I do. So word to the wise, be a very careful pedestrian in Marrakech or you might end up in the hospital!! Like Fes, there is no rhyme or reason to the streets, and most only go a block or two, so it's very easy to get lost here. There aren't many street signs, so I've taken to finding landmarks, but even then I get lost at least once every time I leave the riad!
I had a revelation on the square today: cats are the pigeons of Morocco. There are tons of strays and they are all very mangy and disgusting looking, unlike in Greece and Turkey where at least some of them could pass as pets. What's more, there are no pigeons here. Yes, that's right..no pigeons!!! I didn't even realize it until I thought about all the cats. Of course, they EAT pigeons here, which probably keeps the population in check!
Today I did the typical touristy thing and went to the museum (a restored palace, truthfully the palace part far outshone the artifacts on display, which weren't all that impressive). I also went to the medersa, or religious school, which was right next door. Again, absolutely beautiful architecture, I have taken over 600 pictures on this trip and at least 150 were in the museum and medersa combined. I'm going to use up this memory card and then some, unless Portugal is really ugly!
I'd better go for now, it's dinnertime and I'm off to the main square for street food, which is cheap and delicious. Until next time!
Yesterday was a travel day, as I had to drive back to Marrakech from Ouarzazate, and had intermittently spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to do with my four-wheeled freedom while I still had it. A part of me really wanted to see the Sahara, but it was 2-3 hours in the wrong direction, plus then I'd have to drive back over the same route, so I finally rejected that idea. That left two options: returning via the same mountain pass road I'd taken (called Tizi-n-Tichka), or trying the other path about 100 km to the west (called Tizi-n-Test). I'd much rather drive in a circle than see the same thing twice, so I decided on the other road. So basically I drove in a very large circle just to see something new.
Tizi-n-Test was a hell of a drive, but God was it pretty! It started out with red volcanic rock, a very barren landscape, which went on for a while, and all I saw was the occasional signpost and RV (Europeans apparently love their RVs just as much as Americans do!), and there weren't many towns at all. After a mountain pass about an hour into the trip, the landscape became much lusher, with rolling hills and grasses, and still fairly empty. Next was a beautiful landscape with lots of trees called argan which - I am not kidding here - the goats climbed up into the trees to eat the nuts!! I had heard about it but couldn't believe I was seeing goats in trees like they were monkeys or something. What's next, horses digging tunnels?? The area looked a lot like the grassy hills of northern California with the argan trees speckled everywhere.
Next, I turned off onto the pass road, and quickly climbed up to the pass which was 6,800 feet high (the mountains of the High Atlas were 11 and 13,000 feet, which is a hell of a thought considering THIS road, unbeknownst to me, was less than two lanes wide it was about 1 1/2 in most places, and to pass another car you had to edge onto the shoulder, which was often loaded up with rocks that had fallen from higher up. In many places there was no guardrail at all. I think if I had known what I was in for, I would have seriously reconsidered it!! But since on the ascent the foothills were practically nonexistent, the views were like nothing I'd ever seen. Tremendous!
Once I crossed the pass and began descending, the landscape instantly changed. Partly overcast and dry gave way to cloudy and cold, and there was snow everywhere, including quite a bit on the road! I know how to drive in snow, but I didn't think I'd signed up for it on a narrow road with no guardrail 6,000-odd feet in the air. But the snowy landscape didn't last long, thankfully, and I kept going. The foothills went on forever but finally I made it to the bottom (still 1 1/2 lanes almost the entire way). And on to Marrakech to return the car and check into the riad. Right as I got put of the foothills and onto the plain I saw a very large storm just off to the east, which as it turned out would follow me in! I made it to the road with about 5 minutes to spare before the sky absolutely opened up and it poured. And I mean POURED, for about an hour, mixed in with hail for a good 15 minutes. I'd never seen hail go on for so long! The funniest part was, the courtyard roof of the riad is tarped, and there is a catchment system which feeds the small fountain on the ground floor. Well, that system caught the hail and sent it down to the fountain, which looked like a beer cooler after the storm!
Marrakech is by far the most touristy place I've seen on the trip so far. I don't think I've seen more than a handful of Americans so far, but this seems to be quite a draw for Europeans, who are everywhere! In my riad alone there is a German family, two British couples and a very nice Irish couple named Leo and Benna that I seem to keep running into. They are hilarious, very deadpan, and Leo is incredibly hard to understand! I think I've had an easier time with some of the French people here, which is kind of funny, probably because they speakvsp much slower. Benna will tell anyone who'll listen about the crazy woman who cut her hand to give her a henna tattoo she didn't ask for or want, then when she refused to pay an exorbitant amount chased her around the square calling her a motherfucker!! It's even funnier coming from a 60 year old Irish lady.
If Fes is the San Francisco of Morocco, Marrakech is without a doubt the New York. It's an incredibly bustling city that makes Fes look provincial. Because it's flat, there are bicycles and mopeds everywhere, even on all the narrow lanes that anywhere else would be pedestrian only. This adds significantly to the chaos as you really need to be careful of making sudden moves sincethere might be a moped right behind you. I've almost gotten body slammed a couple times already because I tend to zigzag around passing people that walk slower than I do. So word to the wise, be a very careful pedestrian in Marrakech or you might end up in the hospital!! Like Fes, there is no rhyme or reason to the streets, and most only go a block or two, so it's very easy to get lost here. There aren't many street signs, so I've taken to finding landmarks, but even then I get lost at least once every time I leave the riad!
I had a revelation on the square today: cats are the pigeons of Morocco. There are tons of strays and they are all very mangy and disgusting looking, unlike in Greece and Turkey where at least some of them could pass as pets. What's more, there are no pigeons here. Yes, that's right..no pigeons!!! I didn't even realize it until I thought about all the cats. Of course, they EAT pigeons here, which probably keeps the population in check!
Today I did the typical touristy thing and went to the museum (a restored palace, truthfully the palace part far outshone the artifacts on display, which weren't all that impressive). I also went to the medersa, or religious school, which was right next door. Again, absolutely beautiful architecture, I have taken over 600 pictures on this trip and at least 150 were in the museum and medersa combined. I'm going to use up this memory card and then some, unless Portugal is really ugly!
I'd better go for now, it's dinnertime and I'm off to the main square for street food, which is cheap and delicious. Until next time!
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Top Fifteen Things I've Learned in Morocco
(I swear, these are all at least half true)
1) Picking your nose is something to be done in the open, like fishing. It's ok to be proud when you catch a big fish.
2) Severed camel and/or sheep heads strung from an awning tell townspeople "Hungry? We have very fresh meat for you."
3) It's considered very offensive to eat with your left - i.e. my dominant - hand, as that is the one traditionally used to wipe your ass. It's a much bigger deal when everyone is eating from the same plate. While we're on hygiene...
4) If your waiter needs to remove your olive plate to make room for your kebab plate, don't worry about that half-eaten bread. He'll be happy to move it to your kebab plate himself to save you both the trouble of discussing whether you were done with that.
5) According to interested merchants and street children, I am alternately English, American, Australian and French. Never German, although there are tons of German tourists here. This disappoints me, as I speak much better German than French or Australian.
6) The phrase "you are welcome" does not always mean "you're welcome". Sometimes it means "I am being nice to you". The appropriate response is "thank you", to which will be replied, "you are welcome". And thus the cycle continues indefinitely, or until you are rude enough to break it.
7) People are not allowed to drink alcohol openly here, however, you may burp as loudly as you please. This amuses me most when old ladies do it while dodging me on the street.
8) You're not supposed to notice that your 70 year old cab driver is drying his Calvin Kleins on the dashboard. While we're on cabs...
9) All cab drivers here are from the Middle East, too! It must be, like, a THING.
10) Casual (or faux-casual?) photos of the king pretending to look surprised are on about half the billboards on town. There's not a word on them. My theory: it's an ad for Polaroid.
11) The sunset call to prayer is quite short, less than five minutes, and considering the boldness often displayed here, rather discreet. The 4am call to prayer goes on for twenty minutes and will rouse you from a Simply Sleep coma.
12) If you face your pigeon or chicken towards your body and stroke its neck and back lovingly, it will stay calm long enough for you to kill it.
13) Much like APD and soccer moms do in Atlanta, pack horses and donkeys always have the right of way.
14) Every time you think you see an American, it will turn out to be a Spaniard. Every time you think you see a German, you're right. Every time you think you see a Dutchman, check to see if he's part of a tour group before making an assessment.
And finally...
15) Never, EVER walk down the middle of a crowded walkway. That's where horses go poopie.
1) Picking your nose is something to be done in the open, like fishing. It's ok to be proud when you catch a big fish.
2) Severed camel and/or sheep heads strung from an awning tell townspeople "Hungry? We have very fresh meat for you."
3) It's considered very offensive to eat with your left - i.e. my dominant - hand, as that is the one traditionally used to wipe your ass. It's a much bigger deal when everyone is eating from the same plate. While we're on hygiene...
4) If your waiter needs to remove your olive plate to make room for your kebab plate, don't worry about that half-eaten bread. He'll be happy to move it to your kebab plate himself to save you both the trouble of discussing whether you were done with that.
5) According to interested merchants and street children, I am alternately English, American, Australian and French. Never German, although there are tons of German tourists here. This disappoints me, as I speak much better German than French or Australian.
6) The phrase "you are welcome" does not always mean "you're welcome". Sometimes it means "I am being nice to you". The appropriate response is "thank you", to which will be replied, "you are welcome". And thus the cycle continues indefinitely, or until you are rude enough to break it.
7) People are not allowed to drink alcohol openly here, however, you may burp as loudly as you please. This amuses me most when old ladies do it while dodging me on the street.
8) You're not supposed to notice that your 70 year old cab driver is drying his Calvin Kleins on the dashboard. While we're on cabs...
9) All cab drivers here are from the Middle East, too! It must be, like, a THING.
10) Casual (or faux-casual?) photos of the king pretending to look surprised are on about half the billboards on town. There's not a word on them. My theory: it's an ad for Polaroid.
11) The sunset call to prayer is quite short, less than five minutes, and considering the boldness often displayed here, rather discreet. The 4am call to prayer goes on for twenty minutes and will rouse you from a Simply Sleep coma.
12) If you face your pigeon or chicken towards your body and stroke its neck and back lovingly, it will stay calm long enough for you to kill it.
13) Much like APD and soccer moms do in Atlanta, pack horses and donkeys always have the right of way.
14) Every time you think you see an American, it will turn out to be a Spaniard. Every time you think you see a German, you're right. Every time you think you see a Dutchman, check to see if he's part of a tour group before making an assessment.
And finally...
15) Never, EVER walk down the middle of a crowded walkway. That's where horses go poopie.
Monday, February 23, 2009
23 Feb, 6:30 pm Fes
So my trip to the Middle Atlas was interesting, not really what I expected at all the first stop was a village called Bhalil which was a very old traditional Berber village which grew out of old cave dwellings. Osama bin Laden's house this was not. I was invited into one, the main living area was bigger than mine and while simple was not at all bad. Not that I'm about to pack up my things and move to a Moroccan cave, bit, y'know. You'll see when I post the pictures!
There were a couple of stops specifically for panoramic views, and oddly enough a town which brands itself "The Switzerland of Morocco". It looked the part although it all seemed a little contrived to me! But there were dozens of Swiss-style chalets, and even snow on the ground in a lot of places. I'd have never guessed it! We had a very mediocre and priced-for-tourists meal, then on to a national park which consisted of three things: cedar trees, snow and MONKEYS! Monkeys that were very used to tourists feeding them; luckily some French children were happy to oblige which took their attention off me. Monkeys are best appreciated at a distance, in my opinion! Again though, not at all what I would have expected for Morocco, the area looked a lot like northern Arizona.
I think it's time for a nap before dinner, I did not sleep well last night at all! Couldn't turn off my brain, plus there is no white noise at all, PLUS the first call to prayer is at around 4 am. These must be a very devout people to be willing to get up in the middle of the night to pray. Oy. Tonight, a simply sleep, just in case!
There were a couple of stops specifically for panoramic views, and oddly enough a town which brands itself "The Switzerland of Morocco". It looked the part although it all seemed a little contrived to me! But there were dozens of Swiss-style chalets, and even snow on the ground in a lot of places. I'd have never guessed it! We had a very mediocre and priced-for-tourists meal, then on to a national park which consisted of three things: cedar trees, snow and MONKEYS! Monkeys that were very used to tourists feeding them; luckily some French children were happy to oblige which took their attention off me. Monkeys are best appreciated at a distance, in my opinion! Again though, not at all what I would have expected for Morocco, the area looked a lot like northern Arizona.
I think it's time for a nap before dinner, I did not sleep well last night at all! Couldn't turn off my brain, plus there is no white noise at all, PLUS the first call to prayer is at around 4 am. These must be a very devout people to be willing to get up in the middle of the night to pray. Oy. Tonight, a simply sleep, just in case!
Sunday, February 22, 2009
4:20pm, airport train station
Well, I made the fatal mistake of walking outside instead of following the actual SIGN and had go back through security after 30 minutes of walking around outside, so I missed the 4:00 train. But no worries, I have money now (an irrational fear of mine is arriving in a country with no local currency, for fear all the ATMs will be empty. Stupid, I know!). And I have a ticket and am no longer in "oh shit I'm lost in a foreign land and will die in this very spot" mode. I am a good traveler, I swear, it just takes me a day or so to get acclimated!
I am pretty sure there are no more than three Americans within a mile of me. It was almost all French and Dutch people on my plane, I thought I caught an American accent in the ticket line, but he was pretty far ahead of me so I'm not sure. What's funny is, I sat down in an empty part of the train platform and very quickly I attracted about a dozen white people. Safety in numbers I guess?
I'm extremely conscious of being an American here, much more so than in Turkey because there are a lot of people in traditional dress. I guess it sort of compares to my layover at Dubai airport a couple of years ago, except much less bling mixed in. I.e., no golden palm trees (I think only Darryl will get this one! Awww.
I'm still attracting white people over here, but of course no one speaking is speaking English. That's ok, I talked enough with that Tahitian guy on the plane to last me a couple of days.
Train platforms are officially Snoozeville! It reminds me a little of Marta, except it's not all grey concrete.
I think I'm going to read up on Fes a little, I was saving it for the train but I just can't wait any longer!!
I am pretty sure there are no more than three Americans within a mile of me. It was almost all French and Dutch people on my plane, I thought I caught an American accent in the ticket line, but he was pretty far ahead of me so I'm not sure. What's funny is, I sat down in an empty part of the train platform and very quickly I attracted about a dozen white people. Safety in numbers I guess?
I'm extremely conscious of being an American here, much more so than in Turkey because there are a lot of people in traditional dress. I guess it sort of compares to my layover at Dubai airport a couple of years ago, except much less bling mixed in. I.e., no golden palm trees (I think only Darryl will get this one! Awww.
I'm still attracting white people over here, but of course no one speaking is speaking English. That's ok, I talked enough with that Tahitian guy on the plane to last me a couple of days.
Train platforms are officially Snoozeville! It reminds me a little of Marta, except it's not all grey concrete.
I think I'm going to read up on Fes a little, I was saving it for the train but I just can't wait any longer!!
11 pm, Fes
It's been a very interesting day in Fes! And quite a tiring one, at that. Lunch at Abdelhak's house was DELICIOUS, if I didn't already love Moroccan food that would have sealed the deal. There was a beef and prune tagine, a bastilla (Nicki - it was even better than in Clarendon!) olives, a green pepper condiment, a tomato/cucumber salad,kebabs,and fruit for dessert. They kept offering me more and more food and I read that it's rude to refuse, so I ate so much I wasn't even hungry for dinner.
I pretty much spent my entire shopping budget today, which is fine by me because I have a bad habit of saying I'm going to buy all these things I see, then I never seize the moment and actually do it. So I wind up with nothing. Well that was most certainly NOT the case today! I bought a handmade leather jacket, an ottoman, some handmade pottery and two handmade rugs. God I sound like a Rockefeller or something. I'll make up for it later somewhere. Plus other than shopping I'm really not going to spend much here, a damn cross country train is like $20. Seriously, it is. And a taxi cross town was two bucks. But enough about shopping already.
I have found Moroccans incredibly outgoing and friendly so far. They all seem to be studying English in school and oddly enough they all love America. It's a hoot to hear them pronounce Obama , like it's three separate words. Or baby talk or something. I should say, the MEN are very outgoing...the women seem to be mostly very traditional, "seen not heard" kind of thing. I haven't seen many women without the headscarf on. Not the case for little girls, the rules seem to be for grown women only. Can't say I understand it all but it's certainly interesting! The downside of having an outgoing people who largely speak English is that EVERYONE wants to talk to you and I don't want to be impolite in a foreign country. And the children are quite persistent. The neighborhood kids know me now but maybe in Marrakech I'll pretend I speak only Esperanto so they'll leave me alone. Of course then I'll have to learn how to say "I don't speak X" in Esperanto. Hmm.
Well I'm positively beat, and tomorrow is a day trip to the Middle Atlas (countryside) which ought to be a nice "off day" from the chaos of the city. This part of Morocco is actually quite green, and now that I know that I'm looking forward to the trip even more!
Bye for now!
I pretty much spent my entire shopping budget today, which is fine by me because I have a bad habit of saying I'm going to buy all these things I see, then I never seize the moment and actually do it. So I wind up with nothing. Well that was most certainly NOT the case today! I bought a handmade leather jacket, an ottoman, some handmade pottery and two handmade rugs. God I sound like a Rockefeller or something. I'll make up for it later somewhere. Plus other than shopping I'm really not going to spend much here, a damn cross country train is like $20. Seriously, it is. And a taxi cross town was two bucks. But enough about shopping already.
I have found Moroccans incredibly outgoing and friendly so far. They all seem to be studying English in school and oddly enough they all love America. It's a hoot to hear them pronounce Obama , like it's three separate words. Or baby talk or something. I should say, the MEN are very outgoing...the women seem to be mostly very traditional, "seen not heard" kind of thing. I haven't seen many women without the headscarf on. Not the case for little girls, the rules seem to be for grown women only. Can't say I understand it all but it's certainly interesting! The downside of having an outgoing people who largely speak English is that EVERYONE wants to talk to you and I don't want to be impolite in a foreign country. And the children are quite persistent. The neighborhood kids know me now but maybe in Marrakech I'll pretend I speak only Esperanto so they'll leave me alone. Of course then I'll have to learn how to say "I don't speak X" in Esperanto. Hmm.
Well I'm positively beat, and tomorrow is a day trip to the Middle Atlas (countryside) which ought to be a nice "off day" from the chaos of the city. This part of Morocco is actually quite green, and now that I know that I'm looking forward to the trip even more!
Bye for now!
1:30 pm 22 February, Fes
I've had a very interesting time in Fes so far! It's one of the oldest cities in Morocco, dating from 808 AD. And it definitely feels like it!
The riad, or guesthouse, I am staying at is beautiful. My room is ornately decorated but somehow not tacky. I'd actually say the same of the city so far. They have beautiful tiles everywhere! I think Islamic style craftwork is so pretty.
I met a man on the train last night named Abdelhak who works for a company that organizes tours around Morocco. He showed me around this morning. At the moment we are relaxing at a tea house and then lunch at his house. Apparently it is very common for Moroccans to invite strangers into their homes, it is the ultimate show of hospitality.
The streets of Fes are very small and winding, and inside the city walls there are no cars and very few scooters (although the few I've seen were quite re risk takers in these crowds). So it's very easy to imagine you are in the Middle Ages being here. And there really is a surprise around every corner. I'm really glad to have someone show me around as there are of course no street signs and really very few signs at all. I can see why there are so many people giving tours here, to wander around here you really need a good idea of how to get back to your hotel, and I'm pretty sure I'd never find it again! So at the moment, I'm very glad for Abdelhak. Maybe I'll try and wander alone tomorrow, but I'm really not sure about that yet.
I have already had a chance to haggle, as Abdelhak of course showed me the tanneries and the store nearby where they sell the handmade leather goods. I bought a jacket, which I needed, and an ottoman, which i probably don't, but it was very pretty. Hopefully it won't look tacky in my house!
Time for lunch, will write more later!
The riad, or guesthouse, I am staying at is beautiful. My room is ornately decorated but somehow not tacky. I'd actually say the same of the city so far. They have beautiful tiles everywhere! I think Islamic style craftwork is so pretty.
I met a man on the train last night named Abdelhak who works for a company that organizes tours around Morocco. He showed me around this morning. At the moment we are relaxing at a tea house and then lunch at his house. Apparently it is very common for Moroccans to invite strangers into their homes, it is the ultimate show of hospitality.
The streets of Fes are very small and winding, and inside the city walls there are no cars and very few scooters (although the few I've seen were quite re risk takers in these crowds). So it's very easy to imagine you are in the Middle Ages being here. And there really is a surprise around every corner. I'm really glad to have someone show me around as there are of course no street signs and really very few signs at all. I can see why there are so many people giving tours here, to wander around here you really need a good idea of how to get back to your hotel, and I'm pretty sure I'd never find it again! So at the moment, I'm very glad for Abdelhak. Maybe I'll try and wander alone tomorrow, but I'm really not sure about that yet.
I have already had a chance to haggle, as Abdelhak of course showed me the tanneries and the store nearby where they sell the handmade leather goods. I bought a jacket, which I needed, and an ottoman, which i probably don't, but it was very pretty. Hopefully it won't look tacky in my house!
Time for lunch, will write more later!
3:30 pm, Casablanca
In line at customs. Sat next to a very nice but VERY talkative man from Tahiti. Talk about the life, eh? Once again the crew spoke to me only in french. I wonder if they'll speak to me in Arabic here. LOL! Can't wait to just...BE there and not be traveling anymore! Although I am curious about the trains here. I guess that'll be next entry. And one of these days I'll get a wifi connection so I can upload these!
1 pm,on the plane boarding
So I'm sitting in a middle seat. In the children's section. On a 3 hour
flight. On the plus side (I'm trying really hard here) they alternate the colors of the seat belts so you know which one is yours. So, yeah. I hope they feed us, I am le starved!!
flight. On the plus side (I'm trying really hard here) they alternate the colors of the seat belts so you know which one is yours. So, yeah. I hope they feed us, I am le starved!!
12 noon, Charles de Gaulle airport, Paris
On my short layover at CDG. The flight was mostly uneventful. I couldn't find my sleeping pills so I had to rough it. I know they're in that bag somewhere but I didn't want the entire plane seeing my underwear! Not that it wouldmatter, I guess. In any case, predictably, I didn't sleep more than maybe an hour and still two legs to go til I reach Fes! Oh well, I'll sleep well tonight and hopefully wake up tomorrow on Moroccan time.
Air France is about what I expected, except that the ENTIRE plane was done up in goofy blue plastic. And two of the flight attendants kept speaking to me in French although it had to have been apparent that I only speak elementary school French! They both spoke English to the lady in front of me. I'll choose to take it as a compliment that I look worldly, or something.
Time to board, next post will be in Morocco!
(PS - thanks to Robert for saving me HOURS transcribing these by posting my emails to him!)
Air France is about what I expected, except that the ENTIRE plane was done up in goofy blue plastic. And two of the flight attendants kept speaking to me in French although it had to have been apparent that I only speak elementary school French! They both spoke English to the lady in front of me. I'll choose to take it as a compliment that I look worldly, or something.
Time to board, next post will be in Morocco!
(PS - thanks to Robert for saving me HOURS transcribing these by posting my emails to him!)
All,
Good news and bad news. The good news is I have already written a lot. The bad news is that I can't post it without rewriting everything! So my blogging will be limited to when I actually have an Internet connection. Boo. I know.
I am having a great time and have already spent more than I should. But it's not all for me, I promise!
Tomorrow is going to be a rest up day. Tonight a tea house and early to bed, I think. Without liquor to keep me up late I have no reason to be up, especially when I get lost so easily here
I'm cold up here on the roof (stealing free wifi from a nearby hotel) so I'm gonna wrap up. Bye for now!
Good news and bad news. The good news is I have already written a lot. The bad news is that I can't post it without rewriting everything! So my blogging will be limited to when I actually have an Internet connection. Boo. I know.
I am having a great time and have already spent more than I should. But it's not all for me, I promise!
Tomorrow is going to be a rest up day. Tonight a tea house and early to bed, I think. Without liquor to keep me up late I have no reason to be up, especially when I get lost so easily here
I'm cold up here on the roof (stealing free wifi from a nearby hotel) so I'm gonna wrap up. Bye for now!
Monday, February 16, 2009
testing!
hello world! Thanks to this nifty iPod touch Robert is letting me borrow, I will now be able to blog anyplace there's a wifi connection. Woo hoo! I will try and give an update every day or two so SOME people who shall remain nameless will know that I'm ok. For the rest of you, this is purely for your amusement and entertainment. Enjoy!!
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